Would you wire the Radio and Unitrol to the ignition circuit rather that directly to the battery?


Because some vehicles are parked for long periods of time, the battery is going dead because the backlighting for the Unitrol is draining the battery.

There is a move in my department for all current and future utilities and command vehicles to have their after-market electronics wired to the ignition circuit rather than directly to the battery. There is a problem with vehicles being stuck with dead batteries because members forget to turn the radios off.

How have you dealt with this problem? Does re-wiring the vehicles sound like the right answer?

Our Radio Shop currently wires all electronics directly to the battery because the Sheriff wants their patrol cars to be able to run light bars, radios and MDC's while the vehicle is turned off. This works for them because the vehicle is never left off for very long. The only time I can think we might have the same concern is if BC's need to stand at the back of their vehicles for a long duration incident and don't want to keep their vehicle running.

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I always wired all my electronics and lights straight to the batteries. I did this because well, it was easier. But as for the fact of draining batteries the only electronic device that I left on would be my radio scanner but that didn't have much draw to it and I recall not having turned my truck on for 2 or 3 days and have left my scanner on and it started right up. If I ever ended up on a scene with my lights on I would leave my truck running so as not to drain the batteries because I'm sure my lights had plenty of draw.

For your situation though I would probably wire to the ignition so as the radio turns off when the vehicle is off and not kill the battery, unless your prudent in turning off your radio whenever getting out of your vehicle.
I've wired all mine to the ignition, so when you turn the key its on and thean off the same way, I hate dead batteries!
How long can the radio's be down without having any battery power? Our department used relays to cut down on downtime battery drain. Don't know if that is an option, but try it.
"parked for long periods of time",

Depends on long period of time. In the fire apparatus, we wire them directly to the battery switch. As soon as the batteries are switched on, they are energized. We also have added battery conditioners which maintain the charge while the apparatus is plugged in at the station. I'm not sure why you would want to leave the lightbars etc operating without the engine running, unless you like changing batteries every 3-4 months.

I have the lights, radios, sirens in my POV wired to the battery through a continuous duty solenoid, which only operates when the ignition is on. By doing so, I do not have the worry of a dead battery plus I don't get the rf noise from the lights and alternator.
"parked for long periods of time",

Depends on long period of time. In the fire apparatus, we wire them directly to the battery switch. As soon as the batteries are switched on, they are energized. We also have added battery conditioners which maintain the charge while the apparatus is plugged in at the station. I'm not sure why you would want to leave the lightbars etc operating without the engine running, unless you like changing batteries every 3-4 months.

I have the lights, radios, sirens in my POV wired to the battery through a continuous duty solenoid, which only operates when the ignition is on. By doing so, I do not have the worry of a dead battery plus I don't get the rf noise from the lights and alternator.
All of our portable radio batteries are taken out and switched twice a week. The ones removed from the trucks are put in a battery conditioner and drained. Once they are discharged, they are slowly built back up to a full charge. Without this, we would be buying vertex batteries every 3 months. All of our apparatus is plugged in while at the station. They are hooked to a power cord (for the battery to never be an issue) an air line (so you have brakes and airhorns immediaely upon start) and also the plymo-vent system to keep the station free and clear of CO and exhaust fumes.
We wire all of our fire and EMS vehicle's radios through the ignition.
That prevents the problem you're talking about.
Remind your shop that fire/rescue vehicles have different needs than the cops' vehicles and see what they can do about it. If that won't work, maybe your department needs its own shop with certified fire and EMS vehicle mechanics.
This is a simple fix, but a battery disconnect switch on the main battery ground. Kills everything.
all of our vehicles have an exterior power source to keep the batteries charged,,,install a small battery charger in the trucks and plug them in...on our newest one,,,it is wired so as soon as the starter button is engaged, the electric supply and external air supply automaticly disconnect,,,I am not sure how much these systems cost, but it sure saves a lot of embarrasment for us..check with any reputible fire service or fire vehicle repair service.
One word.......actually two............Kussmaul System. When a large amount of electronics are installed in a vehicle, it is almost "mandatory" to install some sort of "battery charging system". When not on duty, I work on fire apparatus of all types, specializing in electronics installation. I highly recommend that this system be installed into fire service vehicles that have a large amount of radios, CAD's, or any other "device" that is a constant draw on the battery system. YOu can also "hot wire" the radios, meaning, that when the ignition is turned off the radios are off, when turned on, the radios come on, that way, radios cannot drain the batteries when the vehicle is not in use.
As for the long running times and standing at the rear of the vehicle, get a metal extension tube for the exhaust system. Hope this is of some help Mike.
If you never want to worry about the radios killing your vehicle starting battery then you need to install an auxiliary battery circuit. I did this at my previous department. You also will require a battery charge/isolator, see generic diagram below. The isolator is essentially has a diode so power cannot be drained by the auxiliary radios circuit. The alternator charges through the isolator so both batteries get charged. If it is a full size truck you will have no problem fitting it in on the opposite side to the OEM battery, you just need a tray to hold the aux battery down. Install a new fuse block to power the radios.

Well, In my department all of our trucks have battery mantainers, a dial type switch that prevents ANY drain on the battery, and prevents it from going dead. They of course have the plugs that when we park em, we plug the trucks to a power cord right beside the air plug.

That is always an option if your a low call volume department, or these trucks are parked for longer periods of time.

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