I am doing a study on highrise kits and would like some input on what your depatment uses as far as smoothbore or fog. Thanks for you input.

Views: 60

Add a Comment

You need to be a member of My Firefighter Nation to add comments!

Join My Firefighter Nation

Comment by Jeff Cole on July 13, 2009 at 8:09am
See what I mean? That's fine for residential, single family dwellings. Those who have studied, and have extensive experience with high rise and standpipe operations have refined their procedures. Other departments and officers would be wise to eucate themselves, instead of resist the experience and instructions of the experts. Some chiefs and officers have that attitude of "this isn't...(fill in the blank) FD" Perhaps not, but they HAVE learned their lessons through trial and error.
Comment by Dustin J. Millis on July 13, 2009 at 5:54am
we carry two 150' lays of 1 1/2 connected to a combi nozzle.
Comment by Jeff Cole on July 12, 2009 at 7:42pm
Some people roll teir eyes at this topic, but it IS very important. I would recommend reading Dave Fornell's book on highrise firefighting and standpipe operations. Also, visit Youtube and search for highrise and standpipe operations videos. I have very strong opinions on this subject. First, standpipe operations, either highrise, midrise, or long didtance horizontal systems are NO place for automatic, or adjustible nozzles. In mostcases these systems have minimal maintenence at BEST, and the chance for debris in the system , no matter how often it is flushed, is great. All it takes to clog an adjustible nozzle is small stones, paper, twigs, or flakes from the metal, and your stream is compromised. A smooth bore will clear itself with little difficulty. Also, the operating pressure required, 50psi at the tip, requires much lower pump pressures. Stay away from adjustible nozzles no matter WHO uses them and swears by them. You don't use or buy a nozzle for it's ability to ventilate, as is often the argument. And keeping a smooth bore cracked at half-open position will cause enough turbulence to provide for hydraulic ventilation...if that is used for an argument. Also, the hose lengths should be measured so you can reach the furthest distance from the standpipe connection to the absolute furthest point, giving you enough hose to advance into an apartment from the hallway. Rememeber you MUST connect from the floor below. Avoid carrying all the hose together, as in one 200', four length "bag" of hose. Although we should be as physically fit as possible, carrying all that hose and equipment up several flights of stairs, or over a long distance is unnecessary. We use, and I am a strong beleiver in, 2.5" hose for standpipe packs. Many will disagree. Regardless of the building being commercial or residential, in most cases putting a standpipe hoseline in service IS time consuming. If your starting out with a smaller line, meant for one or two rooms, your beat before you start and we know playing catch-up is always a losing proposition. Go for the big line, use a 1.1/8" tip minimum, and start with big water. You can always gate it back, but if it is too small, your not gonna coax more water, right? Keep your hose bundled in 50' lengths so it can be carried either around the SCBA cycliner, or shoulder, which keeps hands free. Climbing several flights or long distances, you can keep your coat open and carry your helmet until you reach the floor below to conserve heat. OK so heres the scoop: 4-50' sections of 2.5" hose, with a one and one-eigth inch smooth bore nozzle. A standpipe bag consisting of: an in-line pressure guage (otherwise you will have no clue what pressure you will actually be getting from the discharge regardless of the stream looks), 2-2.5" inch elbow fittings, to minimize kinks. 2 or three hose straps, and a short length of rope to secure around the hose and take pressure (stress) off the connections. Vise grips, a large pipe wrench, wedges, and spare valave handle, a metal file, and a short pipe for use as a "cheater bar". ALWAYS inspect the orifice before flowing. You NEVER know who has hidden what inside those discharge or intakes. And flow the water first to clear any debris...needles, drugs, rodants...etc.
Much of this is discounted by many firefighters and officers and they will say this is overkill. I say they are wrong. Make sure it's done right in the begiing. There would be drastic consequences crawling down a hallway when your line clogs, or your nozzle clogs, or your gpm/pressure rate gets laughed at by fire.
If you fortunate enough to have several engine companies you can depend on to arrive on the first due quickly, your lucky. You can always break that duece and a half down, and if you do that, well your fire must be controlled anyways.
Comment by FETC on July 11, 2009 at 10:45am
Smoothbore. Donut Roll of 50' of two and half and 100' (not two 50's) single jacketed, inch and three quarter packed in a bundle with a smoothbore.

Meridian Plaza should be enough proof that low psi smoothbore is the way to go when operating upstairs with any potential of an unguaranteed PSI at the tip, like the demands of fog nozzle.
Comment by Chris Sterling on July 11, 2009 at 10:22am
Hi Doug, our highrise kit consists of 150ft. of inch 3/4 line with a Taskforce Tip automatic nozel with the standard highrise strap system. be safe brother

FireRescue Magazine

Find Members Fast


Or Name, Dept, Keyword
Invite Your Friends
Not a Member? Join Now

© 2021   Created by Firefighter Nation WebChief.   Powered by

Badges  |  Contact Firefighter Nation  |  Terms of Service