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Permalink Reply by Ben Waller on October 16, 2011 at 8:30pm

Chief, for the converted milk tanker, there are at least three options for carrying dump tanks.

 

1.  Depending on the distance between the longitudinal beams that support the tank, you may be able to carry a dump tank laid on its side under the water tank.  This may require cutting out a sheet metal panel under the rear of the tank and adding cross-members and a sheet metal floor to create a protected compartment for the dump tank.

 

2.  You can hang rear-loading dump tank compartments on each side of the water tank.  This makes the rig wider, but you can adjust the rear-view mirror width and re-train your drivers to accomodate this.

 

3.  You can build a rear-loading dump tank compartment atop the milk tank.  This is the worst of these three options, as the ergonomics are not great.  However, you can add a pull-out roller ramp and a truck-mounted ladder to assist with loading and unloading the dump tank. 

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Permalink Reply by Chief Dino on October 16, 2011 at 9:38pm

The department that had the tanker before us had a snap together tank stored on the tailboard, until it fell off early one morning and was destroyed.  We've looked at the feasibility of options 2 and 3, but given the dimensions of a 3000 gal tank and the cost of modifications, we've been reluctant to spend the money.  I do think that a tank mounted on top of the tank is the best option.

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Permalink Reply by Ben Waller on October 17, 2011 at 9:00pm

If you have welders and fabricators on your department (or locals that are willing to donate the work) and can get the materials donated, you can do the modifications yourself.

 

In the case of my old volly department, we did some of the work ourselves and got some of the heavier work donated by a local truck repair shop.

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Permalink Reply by Chief Dino on October 19, 2011 at 5:01pm

True, we definitely aren't hurting for guys that can run a bead, we've already had to do some of our own body work.  But, we decided that we have more pressing budgetary issues to resolve first.

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Permalink Reply by AFD1424 on October 26, 2011 at 1:26pm

Thanks for the input folks - I think the main thing is to keep the focus on being able to keep water in the drop tanks and the wheels turning on the tankers until mutual aid arrives.

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Permalink Reply by Jack/dt on October 26, 2011 at 1:36pm

Personally, I approach this issue with some degree of common sense.  If your tanker holds 3500 gal, your portable tank should equal that.  Having portable tanks that only hold 2000 gal sounds like penny-wise-pound-foolish purchasing decision.  You're sending your tanker back out with 1500 gal in the hold. WTF?

If you're holding your tanker back until 1500 gal have drawn down so it can empty the rest and THEN head out you're delaying your water shuttle by the amount of time to use up a 1500 gal.  WTF once more.

I don't know what a 2000 gal portable tank weighs (empty) versus a 3000 or 3500 one but, if it's a question of breakdown and putaway, by the time the fire is over you should have enough available hands to help with stowing the tank(s). 

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Permalink Reply by AFD1424 on November 1, 2011 at 1:20pm

Thanks for all of the input guys, at our next meeting we'll try and bring this up again and see if we can get the ok to purchase at least one 3500 gallon tank.

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