I know in the northeast there are not to many of the slate and clay roofs as there are in the south and out west. Even so I wanted to find out how the firefighters operating at incidents that include these roofs vertically ventilate and how much it differs from vertically ventilating a shingle roof?
Good question, don't really have them here, but there may be a roof here or there with them. I've heard about using an axe or sledge to bust them up and remove them to get to the sheating below, but never encountered a fire with them.
However, concrete and metal roofin gis becoming more popular and they can look like regular shingles. It would make a good training.
Thank you for the response John I appreciate it. Just trying to learn about different truck operations and tactics, have not really concentrated on truck work in awhile.
Never encountered a fire with a metal or concrete roof. Im guessing metal you would just use the k12 like you do on the roll down doors on store fronts and warehouses?
And with a concrete roof Im guessing you would not even attempt vertical vent and just have to use horizontal vent. But would it make since to try and open as many vents or windows on the roof if you had access or not even waist the time throwing the stick?
It got me thinking a bit more since such roofing is still rare around here, but there are more and more ads pushing them. I looked up a cople contractors and will talk to them next week, just to see the products. The metal roof I'm guessing the chain saw may work, but also thinking a K-12 with the Warthog blade. Judging by some pics, it can be difficult to spot such a roof. The concrete has my curiosity piqued, and horizontal vent may be the option, but will fill you in when I learn more.
In Europe these roof are very common and, because of this, the issue of vertical (or any other) venting is a much lower priority because they are virtually self venting. Now I'm saying this with a little caution because the construction methods may well be different in the US.
Usually a tile or slate roof is laid on open batons, no solid under structure is used as would be on a shingle roof, therefore the roof breathes naturally. If you need to vent the roof you can simply rip the slates/tiles off by hand.
The danger with them is that they are a lot more fragile than a shingle roof, walk on one at your peril. If you need to go onto the roof then a roof ladder is essential or you'll vent the painful way.
If you have any of this type of roof on your ground then it would pay to check how they are constructed locally.
Usually a tile or slate roof is laid on open batons, no solid under structure is used as would be on a shingle roof, therefore the roof breathes naturally. If you need to vent the roof you can simply rip the slates/tiles off by hand.
The danger with them is that they are a lot more fragile than a shingle roof, walk on one at your peril.
This is what I'm kind of also thinking Andy, but as I mentioned we don't really have them here. I have seen videos of such tiles being easily removed because there is not much support underneath.
Construction is different in Europe and here and which is why one of the things I'm going to look into is such tiles or concrete now being more used here and in climates like mine. We use a lot of lightweight construction and the added weight here can be a factor.
We have slate roofs here in the New England. They are tough to contend with because when wet and have moss growing on the north side of them they become slicker then snot. They are on old homes with wide planking underneath on wider then 16 on center which could be rotten. You can lift the slates off or break them but remember when they slide off the roof they become big hazzards for those below. Most of these homes have large peak roofs with attic windows or roof hatches. Better to take them out and stay off the roof if able.
There are a couple of homes (8000sq ft) in my area that I suspect have slate roofs. These are 2 1/2 story homes with 12+ pitches. I don't look forward to the day that we're required to be up on those roofs.
There are two methods of slate roofs, the typical slate roof (800-1000 lbs/square - 10'x10') and a light weight slate roof (uses less slate, not designed to be weather tight, underlayment waterproofing materials (rubber membrane) provides protection).
Typical slate roofs are recommended to be applied directly to the underlayment (min. 3/4 planking, never ply or OSB). Slate is brittle and can be broken out easily, walking on slate roofs is NOT recommended due to this.
There are light weight cement products that mimic slate, as well as fiberglass and others of polymer and rubber. Breaking the latter two would likely be difficult and require each one to be pried out or cut through.
In new england the typical metal roof is a standing seam style, applied with screws either directly through the face of the material with stainless steel screws with a rubber gasket at the head, or with metal brackets that fit over the seam, are screwed into the roof sheathing and hidden by the next seam. The K12 would work but these roofs can be very slippery, one foot on the roof ladder and one on the roof would not be all that secure a footing.
I've only ever had to deal with the standard asphalt roofing, pretty much anything other than that and wood shingles is going to be problematic.