We are just about due to spec out a new heavy rescue and will be starting a discussion shortly. Does anybody have any individual design ideas that you have incorporated that worked well for you or any problems you have sucessfully adressed. Even pit falls anyone may have encountered would be welcome.
We just finished taking delivery of our new Rescue. It is a 6 man cab, (4) actual seats with custom cabinet for water rescue suits and gear on an E-One / Gladiator Chassis. We have a serious height issue with a very old fire station (Circa 1885) So we custom spec'd a rescue to fit the doors.
Design ideas: I suggest forming a truck committee. I also suggest the committee viewing new trucks in the area from different manufacturers. We did not spec a walk-in rescue but rather a walk-up rescue with rear stairs to large coffins above. Full set of Hurst High Pressure Rescue Tools, pre-reeled in the oversized front bumper and another tool pre-reeled and a 4th tool set-up with power unit (stand alone) in the left rear compartment on that dolly for extrications over the embankment. Pull out tool boards (for both sides) with all hand tools and (2) paratech rescue vehicle stabilization strut kits mounted. My next favorite simple feature is a speedi-dry hopper on top with a discharge port underneath, so you can just place an empty bucket on the ground and fill what you need at an accident. No more half empty bags spilling all over the compartment.
No water / no pump - just a big rolling toolbox as it should be!
Pierce obviously.
We currently have a single axle, heavy duty walk around. Seating for 7, six pack seats.
EMS compatrment in the middle of the two rear facing seats. With overhead compartments over the 3 forward facing seats.
It has a light tower, cascade system, 400 gallons of water, 30 gallons class B foam.
Two Hurst hydraulic units with one portable unit. Air reels and electrical lines.
Paratech stabilization struts.
Six hydraulic rams of various sizes, one spreader with up to 40 inch tips, one combi tool, one O cutter. Flares, extinguishers, water cans, hooks. The usual. Pedal cutters. air chisel, sprinkler kits, tape, leafblower, RIT pack up top. Stokes baskets, water vac, salvage covers, nails, hammer, more rope eqpt ( never have enough). Water suits, Cooler and cups, six backboards. Radios, hand lights, sawzall, extra scba masks and regulators.
One bumper trash line and attack line, ( yes we have put a house fire out with this unit).
Six enormous coffin compartments in the walk area up top accessed from the rear ladder.
Absorbant coffin up top with drop down hose into a compartment hose.
Both low pressure and high pressure airbags. Ladders obviously, standpipe packs also.
Various saws fans, rope rescue, water rescue, fans, hand tools, arc air, and various other rescue/fire tools.
Road cones, a pitchfork (so we qualify as a heavy rescue in our mutual aid county). Portable Gen lights, tripod scene lights. Brooms. Everything lol.
Vertical slide out boards work well for mounting hand tools.
Transverse compartments work well, just look at current apparatus you like and design it the same.
We really love our Squuuaaaaaaaaaaaad 2.
We will soon be replacing ours with a tandem axle walk-in hopefully.
The most important thing is not the manufacturer, the body style (walk-in, walk-up, or walk-around), how many rear axles, or the cab style.
The most important things are:
1) Design the rig around what it is going to carry. If you design a cool rig that your gear doesn't fit or that won't carry everything you need, you've wasted a lot of time, effort, and money.
2) Design the rig so that items used together are carried together. If you have to go to four different compartments to get four items that are used together, it is inefficient.
3) Design the rig with good ergonomics - heavy and bulky items should go down low, lighter and less bulky items go higher.
4) Use toolboards whenever possible. They put more gear in the same amount of space.
5) Don't put sheet metal over empty space. Use the wheel wells for SCBA and fire extinguisher storage, for example.
6) If you have items that are used only rarely, top-mounted coffin compartments and a walk-up rear stairway like FETC's rig are a good idea. You may be able to just put those items on a trailer and tow it behind a pickup truck or SUV and save weight on the rescue, too.
7) Use reels for your hydraulic extrication tools, electric cables, and air lines whenever possible, including fromt bumper mounts. They take up a little room, but can be mounted in otherwise dead air space. They save time and effort, particularly if the rig will ever be manned shorthanded. These are the rescue company equivalent of preconnected hose lines.
8) Include LOTS of electrical power and lighting. If you can't create instant daylight in all directions with reserve electricity for tools and additional lights to spare, you will regret it.
9) Make sure that there is adequate space for the crew. If there's a chance that you'll ride more than the regular crew, consider at least a 6-man cab or a walk-in rescue box.
10) Most important, make sure that you WEIGH THE TOOL PACKAGE and design a rig that won't be overweight the first time you mount the tools and gear. I've seen heavy rescues that were overweight before the first crew member set foot in the rig. That's dangerous, and it's easy to overcome with a little planning and real-life data.
I work part time for a company called Custom Fire Apparatus. They did all the heavy rescue trucks for the city of St. Paul Minnesota, as well as others. I can get you all the info you need, send me a message.
Fire Engineering, Fire House or Fire Chief. Look up purchasing and it will come up. Good articles to read. Work closely with your purchasing department and seek their advise and opinions.