Whew! That was long winded. Ringold15, stick with basics, make sure everyone can open a car hood with you halligan and flat axe, the peen of a fire axe makes a good hole for a nozzle or a dry chem. to be used for initial knock down until you can get the hood open. Strike the hood with the peen and twist the axe, nice hole. In buildings, open the walls and ceiling with your hooks, halligan and axes. Then go after the fire, remember always have a charged manned hose and water supply at the ready when opening anything you think there might be fire in. If there was fire in a room you must check for extension. Be safe, good question and better spelling! Keep at it.
Thank you I know our opinions differ on this topic but here goes. We use ours with our cafs of hay fires, car fires, attic fire, ect. and it works great. If you will look at my photos you will see the dodge pickup that was put out with one and we were trying to use a regular nozzle.
thanks for the replie
We have one on the pumper... it's a shorter one though... about 3 feet long. Being the "probie" I asked if that was used for basement fires. They said "yah, you could... but we use it mostly for chimney fires." Didn't see anyone mentioning THAT as a use for it here... so I thought I would throw it out there.
I have two of them, use them regularly. The first option is the Augustus Fire Tool Series 100 attachment for a dry chemical fire extinguisher. We use it on car fires that hood access may be a challenge. Last response used was a MVA with entrapment (front end damage) and the car had an engine compartment fire. The tool was used to knock it down quickly. A line was pulled for greater protection but the piercing tool was immediate.
My next option that gets checked or used daily is the Snozzle Piercing Nozzle, used in the ARFF industry. Remotely placed fire sprinkler head used on a multitude of fires.
They work great on fires in modular homes where the fire is in the ceiling. We use to chase the fire across the ceiling trying to keep up. Until we used are five foot piercing nozzle to "draw the line" on where the fire could burn.
Nothing wrong with a two-step attack. Start by puncturing the hood or trunk lid with the piercing nozzle and extinguishing the fire, then open the metal for overhaul after the fire is knocked down.
Ensuring knockdown while keeping a metal barrier (hood or trunk lid) between you and the fire maintains an additional safety margin. Also, the steam from the piercing nozzle stream will smother hidden pockets of fire more quickly than a standard fire stream can do the same extinguishment.
Are five footer was bought for hay bale fires. We haven't used it for that since I have been a member. They tell me they didn't like it. We call a backhoe now to tear them apart as we wet it down.
They are a must have! We just ordered another one from Ryan @ Broken Bow. He makes them and sells them for $425. It has points value for ISO rating too.