I'm a halligan guy. I have also long been a disciple of the John Wayne (boot) method and the Rabbit Tool is great when you have a whole bunch of door opening to be performed so you can get back to bed tonight. Of course, I think a rotary saw plunged to the guard through the center of a door is a thing of beauty as well.

Feel free to wax poetically about your preferred method for scaring the crap out of those sleeping people in that apartment next door.

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I do on occasion carry my sledgehammer left over from my days as an ironworker. I have cut the handle down a bit, it has a 12 lb head, and I wrap the first 3" (below the head) with mechanics wire (in case of misses) I have also wrapped the lower portion of the handle like a hockey stick to prevent it from slipping. Simple to use, top hinge first, then lower hinge, and if needed strike plate side as close to the knob as possible. With a little practice and some upper body strength it's just as quick as a halligan
I recently took forcible entry and the instructor was very knowledgeable. We tried out all the tool on different doors. For steel doors i like the rabbit tool because within 4-6 pumps ur in, if u take your irons and try it it takes a really long time. I like the irons still because you can do alot with them.
Gimmie the irons! As long as I can beat a door into submission, I'm a happy guy!
Stopped carrying the flat head with my bar becuse just used it for beating things anyway. Carrying sledge and bar now. Still need to modify it to carry though. Great way for this on vententersearch.com. Rabbit tool works good but my LT. carries that. I just play mule, Halligan, Sledge, Imager, Flashlight, Search rope.
Had a engine Lt. try his shoulder the other day..lol..Was great when he fell back on his radio...I am a Halligan guy but I love a good sledge. Rabbit toll is great for apartments and I just tryed a thing called a toho door opener which was made for police but it an airbag system that works with strong iron doors
It might Not be a very popular situation, But Back in 1978 I was the company officer of my volly truck,eventually I got on the job (after learning about "other" aspects of thefire service) and was assigned to Trucks for my early years, on the job.. even assigned for awhile to a tiller rig,which are nearly extinct around these parts now... I had a few Notable situations, that in the heat of the moment especially were Book worthy material.... One time (at band camp) we had a 2 and a half frame, it was about 4 am, we'd spent about 6 hours early in the evening ata taxpayer which turned into a quagmire due to problems getting the cockloft opened up, tin on plywood on tin on plywood ceilings, we were beat, Following the 1st due engine in, MY Lt says as we approach a group of several civilians in sleepwear, watching the engine go flying by, I looked over and said, hey loo, whadayathink, ya wanna stop where all the people are jumping up and down or what? he said yeah, might be a good idea.. so we did, the place was going good in the rear, and we went in to begin a search, I made my way across the 1st floor and found the kitchen area involved, I could see/hear the loo, and the nozzleman at the rear door, hitting the outside, and then trying to open the back door...I could Barely see but soon realized the back door was barred with a 2x4 across it I yelled to em outside to stand back , and gave the door a backwards KICK with My size 16, the door went flying off the porch and into the back yard.. as the guys stood there in disbelief.... The LOO, deadpan says Me "like" Jimmy , Jimmy is GOOD!! n his best
neanderthal voice.... we laughed about that one for weeks ... turned out the door was only being held by the 2x4 no hinges..... ButI never told em THAT....lol .... sledge, flathead, hallligan, officers lockpuller, my homemade hingepin puller and shoveknife, and a halligan styled tower ladder hook and laugh as you may, I'll take a pickhead for Pulling walls and ceiling (we have lots of plaster and lath)
you know, I love the old irons!!! but I think that many people have forgotten that alot of truck companies carry vehicle extraction equipment. I have never seen it done before but using the jaws on a steel framed door or locking front gate for storefronts really ain't that bad of an idea ay?
Using jaws would prolly be sorta like using tin snips by the time you finish ...most steel doors arent heavy enough, and the tips too big to get a good purchase shread central........check out www.Frictionforce.net the guy who designed the training tool is a brother from My job, its awesome and with a little bit ofmessing around you will be .. popping metal doors with a halligan and axe in your sleep, He was at a muster yesterday , and had a 9 year old girl, and her 8 year old brother swinging the flathead, it took a few more shots, But she actually was able to pop the steel core door at its hardest setting once youknow what and how to do it Its easy ...
I'm a fan of the "boot" method too! But the places where it works are fewer and fewer. After that, you never go wrong with the Halligan/Denver tool combination. A Flat-head will work if you don't have the DT. Very few doors can stand up to this type of force. I've only used the rabbit tool once and the K-tool a couple of times, they're fun too. For "prison" bars on doors and windows, the halligan will usually work, if not, the K-12 with the abrasive metal cutting blade is a sure bet!
Heavy Irons- halligan n a splittin maul.

Stay safe!
Residential door- got to go with a sledge or maul right on the deadbolt... awesome when it splinters the door frame into a million pieces. Not great for door control or a friendly means of entry, but you asked.

Commercial door- not as quick, but I am a huge fan of the K-tool. I feel it doesn't get utilized enough today (f-ing Knox boxes and all).

Someone said Denver Tool (aka TNT tool). I personally hate the TNT tool (much like a quint, does 5 jobs, all of them poorly). Opinions?
I am a fan of the hydra ram (rabbit tool) and the irons (8lb flat head axe and 30 inch pro bar) for multi family dwellings and single family dwellings. If we are going commercial then I switch out the axe for a sledge.

For over head doors the k-12 or partner saw is the way to go. I like to go with the triangle cut or if its slated use one single cut then use the halligan to remove the slats.

One thing I HATE is the "foot" method seen to many guys get hurt,surprised, or mess the door up so that normal forcible entry wouldnt work and we had to go to a saw to remove the door. Besides the fact that it is unsafe thats another topic but the FD pays for these tools least we could do is learn to use them and use them right.

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