Inspired by Firefighter Naum's 10 Minutes in the Street series, though not nearly as in-depth. Excuse the crudeness, it's my first post, and I'm not very good at all with photoshop.

Plain and simple, I want to know what your plan of attack would be, and how you would go about it. Cover all the bases, size up, manpower, apparatus placement, type of attack, ventilation, search, etc., etc. More specifically though, if you choose to go interior, I want to know how you would tackle this on an interior crew. Because if you're not careful, as simple as this fire may look, there is one area in this home involved in fire where you can get yourself into a lot of trouble.

1 story ranch style, SFD, Type V Construction, no basement. The detached garage is approximately 15 feet off to the B side. There is a hydrant within one city block of the residence to the East, another is 2 blocks away to the West. Winds are out of the West to Southwest at 5mph. It's a nice Summer day, low 80s with minimal humidity.

Photobucket

Key: Grey/Black = smoke, the darker it is the more intense and harder pushing it is.
Red = Fire, the darker the more intense.

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John, you're close on where an interior crew can get into trouble. And while that is a possibility, it's what is already involved in fire where the problem lies. After a few more responses I'll point it out, if no one else has, and provide the correct tactic for attacking it.

And good point about the blueprint. Let's all assume this home is part of a new development in your response areas. Due to good department pre-planning, and a fine home owners authority, you have been provided ahead of time with blueprints of the 3 or 4 different types of homes available for purchase in this development.
Verticle vent first. By the way, what about wind, speed & direction.
I don't have time for a full analysis right now, but a couple of points on this one.

If this is lightweight engineered construction with truss roof supports if we know we don't have a rescue problem, I might fight this one defensively. It has enough pre-burn time to autovent the MBR to Side C and D, if I read the legend correctly. That's enough time to make the roof truss integrity iffy.

If this is dimensional lumber construction and/or we have a rescue or potential rescue, then we're going straight in the front door with a 1.75 inch line and going straight for the fire down the interior hallway. Backdraft should not be a problem, as this one has autovented and is now a fuel-controlled fire.

If we're worried about the fire breaching from the Master bathroom to BR2, we can just close the hallway door on the way by and have the second engine hit it with a backup line.

The hall bath shouldn't be a big problem - we're going to black it out on our way to the MBR with the line.

The other issue is that if the fire gets into the kitchen before we make the hallway, we can potentially push the fire behind us into the dining room. Open construction is common in new-style homes built in bulk by national builders, but is also common in the 1960's and 70's split level and split foyer SFDs. All it takes to beat that problem is two lines - one to hold the DR and Kitchen and the other to extinguish the MBR fire.
First due engine placement on the A side two personal pulling 1.75 line going through the front door down the hall way to the M Br. Second due engine tagging the hydrant with a forward lay to primary engine pulling a 1.75 line for a back up safety line. RIT team in place along with an incident safety officer. My concern would be Br 2 and the kitchen area. Definitely make sure the Br 2 door is closed and have the back up line crew watching the kitchen area and Br 2 area in case fire breached either room that would have the potential for cutting off the initial attack crew.
First in engine will park on the road, 2 firefighters in the back will pull a 2 1/2 attack line and attack through the front door. Second in engine will lay out supply line from the east hydrant. Since it appears that this fire is auto vented through the MBR window and the bathroom on the D side of the house, I will have second in engine firefighters pull a backup line and enter behind the first in crew. Second in officer will set up PPV at the front door to push the heat and smoke out the back of the house. As second in enters the structure they are closing doors that will affect the flow of the PPV. That put's my 2 engines to work but I also have two pumper/tankers that would also roll on this so the first one, which has 2500 gals. on it, will cover the garage on the B side. The second one will standby on the street.
My first question is, is this an abandon or foreclosed home?
If so I would stay purely defensive. Pulling the first in engine just in the drive stretching a 2 ½ up the B side. Having the second in unit laying a hydrant, from their direction of response. I would set up positive pressure ventilation on the porch at A side porch. Knocking out the windows at the C side, starting the fan at that time and starting the attack from the porch. After so progress as been made reevaluate and consider interior attack if structure is secure enough for interior operations. Second in unit would search the building for vagrants after fire was under control.
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If possibly occupied and cars in the drive way.
Truck placed just in the drive way. 2 ½ line pulled to the A side porch. breaking the windows on the C side bedroom 1, and starting the positive pressure fan. First in crew would do a search of living room and bedroom. with set up time the second unit would be on scene and would advance the hose line to the fire. The searching crew could pull back and search the remainder of the structure. After the build is cleared from search the attack would change to defensive attack.
"The hall bath shouldn't be a big problem - we're going to black it out on our way to the MBR with the line."

That's the main point I wanted to get to. The hallway bath shouldn't be a problem, but could become one. An inexperienced crew could enter this bathroom on the way down the hallway, the fire then could make its way back down the hallway behind them, trapping them in the bathroom. Or hypothetically, this could be more likely if this were a larger room, like another bedroom or living room.

Under no circumstances when you have a fire progressing down a hallway and it then extends into another room off of the hallway should you enter that room. It's not a question of if, but a question of when you will get trapped. You fight the fire from the hallway as you progress down it towards the main body of fire. In this instance in the master bedroom.
There's a good video floating around on the internet showing this tactic. I saw it a few months ago, I can't seem to find it right now though, blah....
May I ask why?
Our companies are within 2 minutes of each other, 4 eng, 2 trucks, heavy rescue, medic and 2 bc's.
A few items I'll disagree with. You don't verticle vent unless the fire has entered the attic or you will pull it into the attic. The fire has vent horizontal out the back with a low wind to your back, this is fine.
A interior fire should be attacked with an 1 3/4" not a 2 1/2" for manuverability. It would take 4 firefighters to advance on the interior. You get 185 gpm with a straight tip at 50 psi. This fire only a straight stream should be used. Go thru the front door and push it out the vented window. It's basically a room and contents. Should go out in several minutes. Hit the bathroom 1st then proceed to the bedroom. I don't see any problems.
The smoke is dark gray not brown which means the structural members are not involved.
2nd line back up in the hallway, rescue will search, 4th eng is RIT, 1st truck coordinate vent with engine company.
Yeah. I meant 1 3/4. I also had my mind on some other things when I wrote my response. Sorry!!! LOL
If I pull a 2 1/2" I've already gone defensive. Although, there are some who will try an push a 2 1/2" interior. We only run 4 on our engines and don't have the manpower to go with the big guns unless were outside. Plus with the technology of nozzles and higher psi you can get almost the same gpm as a 2 1/2"
Stay safe, Larrys

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