Does anyone have any tips/comments on determining what components of a vehicle are made from hardend / high strength steel?
Working a job is one thing ,but while drilling on extrication techniques I do not want to overextend the capabilities of our Hurst cutter and run the risk of damaging the blades. Budget $$ is tight. We were drilling on a mini van the other day which we had done a nice backhoe crush job on prior to the drill. Tunneling through the back of the vehicle the question came up on cutting a seat latch out. We paused as we were uncertain of the type of steel in the seat latch. Needless to say we went to plan B and avoided cutting the latch.
Modern cars do indeed have hardened steel in the "Nader" bolts (actual name..named after Ralph Nader)...But we have found that they can still be cut even with hand tools...just takes longer....you won't break your rescue tools trying to cut one....even if it is beyond your tools capability....the unit just won't do it.....you might want to talk with a Hurst rep and see what the specs for your particular model are.....
AHSS (Advanced High Strength Steel) such as Boron used in most newer vehicle construction (1998 and above) are located mainly in the door pillars, and rocker panels etc. The Nader Pin and some brake pedals are hardened and difficult to cut with older tools. I echo Paul's idea of checking with your Hurst rep.
Depending on the brand of tool, most cutters manufactured within the last 5 years, are able to handle AHSS although techniques may need to be modified. Even if you are using an older set of tools, there are many work arounds and techniques where you can bypass the AHSS areas.
A search on the internet will show many websites where information can be found. Here are a couple to get you started.
form my years of service and knowing tech data from auto dealerships they are putting hardened steel in a posts and top side of b posts due to new air bag placments and also the borom of b posts where the seatbelt brackets are . and due to trial and tool brakege we have found these areas
Thanx for the good info. I spoke to my Hurst Rep this am and he answered the question by saying the cutter will simply stop....... if it is overwhelmed when cutting into material which is just to hard for the cutter.
He mentioned the Hurst tool we carry will generally not have a problem with hardened steel. What he did share with me, worth passing on," it is not the material which generally damages a cutter but more so the technique of the operator". When cutting and the cutter starts to twist into the cut, the material on the opposite sides of the cutter is putting undo force on the two sides of the cutter blades. STOP - reposition and continue.If you do not slow down and reposition the cutter, the blades have a chance of getting a nasty nick or deformation.This will intern lead to problems. Ya do not cut with the tips but work on the technique. Use the cutter tool like a scalpel vs a machete- Good info.