Here's a fairly common call for most of us, but there's a multitude of ways to extricate, so let's hear it!

What hazards are present?

What's your department's response?

How do you extricate? LEt's assume that the driver is pinned by the steering wheel, from the roll over and impact....

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Will do, TCSS....Ric
Sorry I'm a little late jumping in on the comments here but everyone makes good points. I agree the EMT (Paramedic) determines the condition of the patient which will set the tone of the extrication. I agree with Stacy as far as crib first then go after the doors. A car is a car weather its on its roof or its wheels. If the roof is intact and you have room to play go after the doors and the B-Post. If the roof is crushed down then you will have to use the struts as in the latest photos. Both work equally well. The second is a lot more work but if thats what the call dictates....
here's an article on inverted dash displacement. using good lifting struts and the lifting/stabilization techniques, an inverted dash displacement and full roof removal can be extremely quick and simple.

here's an article:

http://www.res-q-jack.com/images/stories/pdf/inverted-dash-displace...

there's a lot more like it at:

http://www.res-q-jack.com/Education-Applications/
Stacey,You got that much cribbing on your rig? Going to take quite a bit to crib that rear section.We don't but I probably got enough to cheat it. Struts are a good plan.Couple more things I can suggest but I'm gonna let this one run a bit and see what pops up.
Good news Mike,you can NOW get the jack kits for the 42's.How sweet is that?
Try this one,
You can find my article in the October 2008 Issue of Fire Engineering

Firedog7
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Why a chain saddle? Wouldn't a rear fender spike on the struts work better and be more stable?
Yup,SWEEEEET!
Either will work situationally, but the chain saddle gets more points of contact with more car parts. The chain saddle doesn't risk a loose fender pulling off and giving you a shock-load destabilization.

That said, I've done several of these, and in most cases struts with flat edges into the trunk lip do the job just fine.
That's a modern upgrade to the complete roof removals we used to teach 20 or 30 years ago. We did cribbing/step chock stabilization with a planned gap between the car and the top layers of cribbing. We filled the void with a rescue air bag inflated to contact (no lifting!), severed all of the roof posts, and then deflated the air bags to lower the roof in a controlled manner. Typically we'd support and c-collar the patient, cut the seat belt, and do an inline move to a long spineboard if there was space available or just to the roof if we couldn't fit the longboard inside.

As long as you plan the cribbing spots to leave enough room to slide the roof out to either one side of the rear, the old school way still works, especially if you have plenty of cribbing and air bags but no struts.
stabalize the car with chocks and use rams to suport the car where needed. do the glass management if there is any and then work from there with cutting gear to remove patient
ok, i am only an explorer, so i know the first two, but the last one is kinda hard for me, altho i should be starting my USAR/Physical Rescue training with in the next few weeks.
#1) Airbags, fluids, glass, sharp peice of metal, other cars on the road.
#2) this is known in Los Angeles as a "phyisical rescue: roll over". the first responding companies would be, a Task-Force (1 truck, 1 Pump, 1Engine) 2 Ambulance Rescues (1 ALS 1BLS), Battlion Cheif, EMS Captian, and Heavy Rescue 56.

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