Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Ben Waller on November 25, 2009 at 4:11am

Luke,

I don't think you understand my point. What you're stating is fine...IF the reason for the whistle stop is a problem is some kind of problem that doesn't involve a main line failure.

However, if the reason for the whistle stop is a main line failure then it doesn't matter what kind of friction device is used, because that device will be hanging below the load and will no longer be connected to an anchor.

Whistle stop tests were invented to simulate main line failures as well as an untended belay. A device that passes the untended belay test but that does not pass the main line failure test is not a 100% effective device.

Also, if you do a whistle stop test for a main line failure and the belay catches the system with no movement at all, you'll create a shock load that can fail the belay and drop the load catastrophically despite the redundent belay. A gradual stop, rather than a sudden shock-load stop is a more desirable belay.

Permalink Reply by Ben Waller on November 25, 2009 at 4:14am

Jimmy, since fire service ladders are only tested to 600 lbs, if you use a fire service ladder as your "rack" with a 600-lb rescue load, then you have no safety factor at all.

Permalink Reply by Lance Piatt on December 1, 2009 at 1:47pm

In the end, many different ways to accomplish the task. From small beginnings, great things can occur.. including problems. Fine, stay with the rack, but eventually, a screw up will happen, and you'll need to go up again; you know this is true. Add and jigger system at the anchor (4:1, set of fours, AZTEK whatever). This takes some of the uncertainty out of the game (if one thinks down is the only direction, but has a sense of doubt).

As with any piece of gear, multi-function is a great investment. The agreement for strength (favoring a rack) is no longer valid by itself. To many other options (and much safer and easier). Time and lives are saved by efficiency and safety. Intelligence, wisdom and knowledge are come by asking questions and not accepting "because" as an answer.

I love the heart of the responses here.... thank you.

More if you need more.
www.rescueresponse.com

Lance

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