Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Dave Andrews on July 11, 2009 at 8:40am

Hi
before we "rush" the 1st rescuer on a rope with a 8 and a blocker to stabilise de victim. We change our technique . Now 2 FF are dispatch for the " stabilise" part. 1 line for the descent and one for the belay.
For the "Evacuation" part we have 4 techniques and they are all engineer with two ropes, two Anchors system. Always redundant.

And yes i see one time a rope fail, on ice climbing day, it's not the load that cut the rope but a cutting edge of rock!!

Protect your rope!!!

Permalink Reply by Lance Piatt on November 24, 2009 at 11:29am

Twin rope, SRT, main line/belay line, main line/safety line. This is a lot to remember and techniques to know. Knowledge and wisdom are your best assets. One person, two person loads, steep angle or high angle. Your systems are not created equal, nor is there a single best answer. My suggestion is to know the situation and time allotted for your evolution. Depending on whether or not the rescue is top down or bottom up, safety lines vs. belay lines are options.

I know this sounds like I am skipping over the question, but the things you need to answer are your own concerns.. then you can move on. Redundancy can lead to complications if not understood, SRT can lead to skepticism from others (does that make is wrong?). Just because SRT isn't popular in the States, doesn't mean Australia is ok with hurting people. Does having a belay line lessen your need to understand your main line system?

Again, it comes down to knowing the equipment, your techies, your system and the situation (urgency). So what is your main concern?

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